Tuesday, November 4, 2025

Belmont Mansion, Nashville

 



   

    Adelicia Hayes Franklin Acklen Cheatham (1817-1887)  was quite a formidable woman of the 19th century South.  Born in Nashville, she married Isaac Franklin in 1839.  He was 28 years older, and his family had capitalized on the fact that the importation of enslaved people was banned in 1808 by becoming major players in the domestic slave market, buying slaves in the upper South to sell to planters in the lower South, chiefly along the Mississippi River and in Mississippi and Louisiana.  Franklin was quite wealthy and had acquired several large plantations in Louisiana.   These lands later became the core of Louisiana's infamous state prison, named Angola. They had four children, all of whom died very young. Franklin died in 1846, leaving Adelicia their summer plantation Fairvue in Gallatin, Tennessee, the Louisiana plantations, some 50,000 acres of undeveloped land in Texas, stocks and bonds, and over 750 slaves, making her the wealthiest woman in Tennessee and one of the wealthiest women in America.  Although both legal custom of the time and Franklin's will demanded that a widow's property transfer to her new husband upon remarriage, Adelicia successfully avoided that fate.  She maintained control of her fortune, with one exception, throughout her life, and her future husbands each signed marriage contracts recognizing her control.  When she married Joseph Acklen in 1849, she was forced to give up Fairvue, but she retained the rest of her fortune.  They began building a new summer home (They spent most of the year in Louisiana.) in Nashville in 1850 and named it Belmont.  When completed in 1860, the "summer home" and 36 rooms, comprised 19,000 square feet, and included a zoo on the grounds.  They had six children, four of whom survived to adulthood. Acklen died in 1863, and Adelicia later married Dr.  William Archer Cheatham, the director of the Tennessee State Insane Asylum.  However, she grew dissatisfied with the marriage and moved to Washington DC, where she resided on Massachusetts Avenue.  She sold the Louisiana properties in 1880, and, in 1887, she sold Belmont Mansion to be used as a girls academy.  That school later became Ward-Belmont College for women, and then in became Belmont University.  While on a shopping trip in New York City in 1887, Adelicia died on March 4.  

       The mansion's grounds included many outbuildings, lavish gardens, conservatories, an aviary, a lake, and a zoo. The conservatories housed tropical fruit and flowers, along with camellia japonica, jasmine, lilies, and cacti. The zoo featured bears, monkeys, peacocks, singing birds, a white owl, alligators from Louisiana, and a deer park.  In December 1864, before and during the Battle of Nashville, 13,000 Union troops camped on the grounds, and officers used the house as headquarters.  Below is an 1860 rendering of the estate.


    The Grand Salon is considered by many architectural historians as the finest interior in antebellum Tennessee.  Here, guests would be received and parties held.  Visitors to the mansion included President James K. Polk, William Walker, the American mercenary who tried unsuccessfully to make himself the ruler of Nicaragua, Agustin de Iturbide, the first Emperor of Mexico (1822-1823), and Thomas Huxley, the English biologist.  Guests would see beautiful artworks collected by Adelicia on various European trips, and they would also see fantastic examples of the art of trompe l'oeil, the art of illusion using faux finishings to make painted wood  floors and walls look like marble and painted doorframes look like fine wood.  Great care has been taken to restore and to preserve the mansion as it was, and many furnishings have been contributed by the family over the years.  Other pieces are chosen to reflect the period.









painted doorframe


    The detail in the Grand Salon is incredible, and that detail carries through the rest of the house.  I was particularly taken by the plaster ceiling medallions surrounding the light fixture in each room, painted ceilings, and  molding details.






    The formal dining room is as grand as one would expect, complete with monogrammed dinnerware.





    The more informal dining room is across the hall.


    More informal parlors and a billiards room also lie on the ground floor.  The billiards room features a painted oilcloth floor covering.






    The main bedroom:



The children's room and another bedroom.  Note the pallet at the foot of the children's bed, the bed for the enslaved nurse or nanny tasked with caring for the children.  




The Belmont Mansion is truly a great house museum and a must-visit in Nashville.  Yet, it is simultaneously a stark and somber monument to the thousands of people whose lives were devastated in order to make it possible, and Belmont University should expend more effort to tell their part of the story more prominently. (Website https://www.belmontmansion.com/ )








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Saturday, October 25, 2025

The Hermitage --- The One in Nashville

 









    In 1804, Andrew Jackson purchased a 420-acre farm two miles from the Cumberland and Stones Rivers, and he and his wife Rachel moved into the existing two-story log blockhouse.  Over the next 17 years, he acquired more land and more slaves and named the plantation The Hermitage.  In 1821, he and Rachel moved into a two-story Federal-style mansion on the property, with four rooms on each floor.  While Rachel died in 1828, Andrew lived in the mansion intermittently until 1837, when he retired from the presidency and lived there until his death in 1845.  A fire destroyed much of the mansion in 1834, and it was rebuilt and additions were made over the years. Family occupied the home until 1893, but it had already been turned into a museum, at least partially, a few years earlier, making it the second oldest presidential home museum in the country, after Washington's Mount Vernon.  Because the family controlled it for so long, the mansion is unique because so many of the furnishings, include wallpaper, are original to the house.  

    I last visited over 15 years ago, so when we were in Nashville for the Southern Festival of Books, we had to return.

    Visitors first enter a museum which tells the Jackson and Hermitage stories, including a nod to the lives of the enslaved people who made the stories possible.  






     From the museum, visitors walk to the house for the guided interior tour.  Outside, visitors can see reconstructed slave cabins and outbuildings or explore the garden next to the house which also contains the family cemetery and the final resting place of Andrew and Rachel under a gazebo-like structure.




    The Hermitage is a required stop for history lovers visiting Nashville.


Thursday, October 23, 2025

Southern Festival of Books 2025

 


    My wife and I both enjoy author events and book festivals.  We've been to almost every Savannah Book Festival.  This October, we decided to attend the Southern Festival of Books in Nashville Tennessee.  (website https://www.sofestofbooks.org/ )  It's a two-day downtown affair in middle October, with sessions held in the Tennessee State Museum and the Tennessee State Library and Archives, with vendors, book signings, and performance stages held in the middle, on the beautiful grounds of a huge park called the Bicentennial Mall, and it's been going since 1989.  All genres are represented, including children's, fiction, and non-fiction, but the books and authors generally reflect southern themes, as one might expect from the name of the festival.  Most of the sessions are devoted to a single book and author.  In most cases, the authors do approximately half-hour long presentations or interviews with a moderator, followed by questions from the audience.  There are also a few sessions with 2 or three authors and a moderator, and it was obvious that the panels are assembled with great thought and consideration; the authors and books mesh well with each other.  Following their presentations, all authors go to the signing tent for one-on-one interactions with readers.  At first, I was worried because my chosen sessions were often back to back, and I thought that I would have to miss out on signings, but my fears were unfounded, and things worked out so that I really didn't have to make the most difficult decisions.  

      My chosen sessions were all excellent, and the authors were very gracious.  Several of the authors were even kind of enough to pretend to remember past interactions at book events or through Histocrats social media.

Morgan Bolling and Toni Tipton-Martin.  I haven't read this, but it fits right in to my loves of southern and food history.  Tipton-Martin is one of the leading journalists/writers in culinary history today, famous for The Jemima Code among others.


Sam Kean us a favorite podcaster and author who has a real knack for combining science and history and making it really entertaining.  I love all of his work.  Dinner With King Tut is one of my favorite reads this year.  In it, he learns about, and re-creates various ancient activities.  In the photo, he displays the fish that he personally mummified, using ancient Egyptian techniques, in his guest bathroom (where he performed all sorts of experiments, enough to make me worry about his home's re-sale value).  In 2022, he kindly replied to my "7 Questions."  ( Here ) Read my review.


Andrew Lawler, A Perfect Frenzy.  I've enjoyed several other of his books, and this one was a great read as well.  He also replied to my "7 Questions." ( Here ) ( Review )


John T. Edge is a journalist and author who has devoted his professional life to tell the story of the South through foodways, especially the stories of those individuals and groups that might otherwise be overlooked.  One of his most well-known books, The Potlikker Papers, relates the story of the civil rights movement through the lens of food.  He founded the Southern Foodways Alliance, led it for years, and currently produces and hosts the TV show "True South."  House of Smoke is his powerful memoir.  ( Review )

Stacia Pelletier and James Wade write southern historical fiction.  I haven't read any of their work yet, but I have now added them to my list.

Valerie J. Frey is an acquaintance from her former days as Education Coordinator at the Georgia State Archives.  Her book is a history of Georgia's historical cookbooks and recipes.


The highlight of the whole trip was Michael Twitty being interviewed by Sean Brock, a leading southern chef and restaurateur.  Twitty is a culinary historian specializing in southern food and especially how it was shaped by the African diaspora and slavery.  His books The Cooking Gene  and Koshersoul are two of the greatest food books I've ever read, but they're about much more than food.  His new book is a vast collection of classic southern recipes that I can't wait to get into.

Nature's Messenger is a great biography of Mark Catesby, the first trained naturalist to ever make a study of the flora and fauna of the American South.  His legacy is a big one, yet few have ever heard of him.  ( Review )


    Mega Kudos to the organizers of the Southern Festival of Books.  We plan to return next year and maybe make it an annual trip.